Nicotiana (Nicotiana alata), commonly called flowering tobacco, is a tender annual grown for its tubular, star-faced flowers and the fragrance many varieties release after dusk. It belongs to the nightshade family and is a distant relative of the tobacco plant grown commercially for leaf, though garden nicotiana is grown strictly as an ornamental and isn't suited to that use. The plants form a basal rosette of sticky, slightly fuzzy leaves topped by loose spikes of flowers that keep opening from early summer until frost. Because it tolerates a bit of shade better than most sun-loving annuals, nicotiana fills in spots where other bloomers struggle, and a stand planted near a porch, patio, or bedroom window pays off on warm evenings when the scent carries. It's an easy, low-fuss annual well suited to a first-time flower gardener in zone 6b.
Sowing and planting
Nicotiana seed is tiny and needs light to germinate, so most Kentucky gardeners start it indoors rather than direct-sowing. Begin seed indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the last expected frost (mid-March in much of zone 6b), pressing seed onto the surface of moist starting mix without covering it. Keep it somewhere warm and bright; germination can take two to three weeks. Harden off seedlings over a week or so before moving them outside, and don't set plants out until after the last frost date and nighttime temperatures have settled, usually mid-to-late May.
Choose a spot in full sun to part shade with average, well-drained soil; nicotiana isn't fussy about soil fertility and actually blooms more reliably without rich feeding. Space plants 12 inches (30 cm) apart to give the spikes room to fill out without crowding. Work a little compost into the bed before planting, water transplants in well, and mulch lightly to keep roots cool and even out moisture while they establish. If you'd rather skip starting seed indoors, nicotiana is also commonly sold as bedding starts at nurseries in spring, ready to plant directly into the garden.
Growing on
Water regularly for the first couple of weeks after transplanting, then ease back to moderate watering once plants are established; nicotiana prefers soil that stays lightly moist and sulks if it's allowed to dry out completely for long, but it doesn't want to sit wet either. A layer of mulch helps keep moisture even through Kentucky's hot, humid summer stretches. Feed lightly, if at all; a balanced fertilizer worked in at planting is usually enough for the season, and heavy feeding tends to produce leafy growth at the expense of flowers.
Taller nicotiana varieties can lean or flop, especially in open, windy spots or after summer storms, so a few twiggy stakes pushed in early around the base give the spikes something to lean on without looking fussy. Deadhead spent flower spikes regularly, snapping or snipping them off just above a set of leaves; this keeps the plant from putting its energy into seed production and encourages it to keep sending up new spikes right through to frost. Older species types and some heirloom strains self-seed readily if spent flowers are left in place, which can be a welcome shortcut to a fuller patch the following year, while many modern bedding hybrids are bred to be more restrained and produce little if any volunteer seedlings.
Harvesting
Nicotiana makes a good cut flower, especially for an evening arrangement, since the fragrance that's subtle outdoors during the day often becomes noticeable indoors after dark. Cut spikes in the cool of morning or evening, choosing stems with a few flowers already open and more buds still to come, and recut the stem ends underwater before arranging to help them take up water. Flowers are sticky to the touch from fine hairs on the stems and leaves, so handle cut stems by the top rather than gripping the whole length. Strip any leaves that would sit below the waterline in the vase, since they foul quickly, and expect cut stems to hold for about a week with fresh water.
Whether or not you cut for arrangements, deadhead faded flowers throughout the season. Removing spent blooms before they set seed keeps the plant looking tidy and, more importantly, keeps it flowering instead of shifting its energy into seed production. On varieties you'd like to self-seed for next year, leave a few spikes on the plant late in the season so they can ripen and drop seed naturally.
Problems and pests
Sticky residue and chewed leaves from hornworms
Tobacco hornworms, the larvae of a large sphinx moth, are drawn to nicotiana just as they are to its relatives, and a single caterpillar can strip a surprising amount of foliage in a few days. Check the undersides of leaves for the caterpillars or their dark, pellet-like droppings, and hand-pick any you find; they're large enough to spot and remove without much trouble once you know to look.
Fine webbing and stippled, pale leaves
Spider mites build up in hot, dry weather and leave foliage looking dusty and speckled, with fine webbing visible on the undersides of leaves in heavy infestations. Keeping plants watered through dry spells makes them less attractive to mites, and a strong spray of water on the undersides of leaves knocks many of them off before populations build up.
Powdery white coating on leaves
Powdery mildew shows up as a white, dusty coating on foliage, usually late in the season when humidity is high and nights are cool. It rarely kills established plants but can make them look tired. Space plants to allow airflow, water at the base rather than overhead, and remove badly affected leaves to slow its spread.
Sudden wilting despite moist soil
Bacterial or fungal wilts occasionally affect nicotiana, causing a plant to collapse even when the soil around it is adequately moist. There's no cure once a plant is affected; pull and discard it rather than composting it, and avoid replanting nicotiana or other nightshade-family plants in the same spot the following year.
Flowers fail to open or stay closed during the day
This is normal for many nicotiana varieties rather than a problem: a number of types, especially older and species forms, open fully only in the evening and on overcast days, closing up in strong afternoon sun. If you want flowers that stay open all day, look for bedding hybrids bred specifically for daytime display when buying seed or starts.
Varieties worth growing
- Nicotiana alata 'Grandiflora' – The classic species type, with long, pale, intensely fragrant evening flowers and a tendency to self-seed where it's happy.
- Perfume Series – Bred for strong fragrance alongside flowers that stay open through the day, available in a range of colors.
- Nicotiana sylvestris – A dramatic, tall species with large leaves and long white tubular flowers, strongly fragrant at night; good for the back of a border.
- Saratoga Series – A compact, uniform bedding type that flowers heavily and stays tidy without much deadheading.
- Nicotiana langsdorffii – An airy, branching species with small, nodding chartreuse-green flowers that work especially well mixed into a border.
- Domino Series – Dwarf and free-flowering, well suited to containers and the front of a bed where taller types would overwhelm.