True lilies (Lilium spp.) are hardy perennial bulbs grown for their large, often fragrant trumpet- or bowl-shaped flowers held atop tall, upright stems. Garden lilies belong to the lily family, Liliaceae, and the Asiatic and Oriental hybrids are by far the most widely grown types, with Asiatics opening first in early summer and Orientals following with bigger, heavily scented blooms later in the season. Unlike spring bulbs such as tulips and daffodils, which spend months dry and fully dormant before planting, lily bulbs are never completely inactive and shrivel quickly if left exposed to air, so they need a bit more care between purchase and planting. In Kentucky's zone 6b, lilies are fully hardy perennials that come back reliably and multiply over the years once settled into a good spot. Give them well-drained soil, sun, and support for the stems in exposed locations, and they'll anchor the summer border and supply some of the best cut flowers you can grow.
Sowing and planting
Lilies aren't grown from seed in most home gardens; you plant true bulbs, which look like overlapping, fleshy scales rather than the papery-coated bulbs of tulips or onions. That scaly structure has no protective outer skin, so lily bulbs dry out and lose vigor fast once they're out of the ground. Plant them as soon as possible after you bring them home, and if planting has to wait, keep the bulbs cool and lightly moist, wrapped in slightly damp peat moss or wood shavings in the refrigerator, rather than left loose in a warm room or garage.
Fall is the best time to plant in zone 6b, ideally in September or October, since it gives the roots a head start before winter and lets the bulbs resume growth early the following spring. Planting in very early spring, as soon as the soil can be worked, is the fallback if you miss the fall window or pick up bulbs later in the season. Choose a site with full sun to part shade and, above all, soil that drains well; lily bulbs rot quickly if they sit in waterlogged ground over winter, so amend heavy clay with compost before planting rather than after problems show up. Set bulbs about 6 inches (15 cm) deep, roughly three times the bulb's height, pointed side up, and space them 12 inches (30 cm) apart. Water well after planting to settle the soil around the roots and bulbs.
Growing on
Keep the soil evenly moist through spring and summer rather than letting it swing between bone-dry and soaked; lilies dislike both drought and standing water, and either extreme stresses the bulb and shows up as weak or aborted buds. A layer of mulch over the root zone helps even things out by keeping the soil cool and holding moisture, while also shading the bulbs from summer heat. Feed lightly in spring as growth emerges with a balanced fertilizer, and again after flowering to help the bulb recharge for next year; heavy feeding isn't necessary once plants are established.
The flowering stems on many garden lilies run 2 to 4 feet (60 to 120 cm) tall, and in an exposed or windy spot they're prone to toppling or snapping, especially once the heavy flower heads open and catch the wind like a sail. Stake tall varieties early in the season, before they lean, using a slim cane pushed in near the stem and soft ties that won't cut into the growth. Established clumps need little else: deadhead spent flowers to tidy the plant, and leave the foliage in place after bloom so it can keep feeding the bulb for next year.
Harvesting
"Harvesting" a lily means cutting stems for indoor arrangements and keeping spent blooms removed, not pulling up the plant. Cut flowering stems when the lowest bud or two on the stem is just showing color and starting to open; the remaining buds will open indoors over the following days. Cut in the cool of early morning when stems are most hydrated, using clean, sharp shears, and plunge the stems into water right away. As each flower opens, consider snipping off the pollen-bearing anthers inside; this keeps the heavy orange pollen from staining petals, fabric, or furniture and slightly extends the life of the cut bloom.
Whether you're cutting for a vase or simply deadheading a fading flower in the border, always leave as much stem and foliage on the plant as you reasonably can; a good rule of thumb is to take no more than a third to half of the total stem length. The leaves left behind keep photosynthesizing after the flowers are gone, which rebuilds the bulb for next year's bloom. Removing a stem down to the ground, or stripping most of its leaves along with the flower, weakens the bulb and can mean a smaller show the following summer.
Problems and pests
Red and black beetles chewing leaves, buds, and flowers
The red lily beetle is an increasingly common and destructive pest, recognizable by its bright scarlet-red body and black legs and head. Both the adult beetles and their soft, slug-like larvae (which often carry a coating of their own dark excrement as camouflage) chew through leaves, buds, and flowers, and heavy infestations can strip a plant fast. Check the undersides of leaves regularly from early spring for the beetles' small orange egg clusters, and hand-pick adults and larvae into soapy water as soon as you spot them; staying ahead of the population early in the season matters more than any single treatment later.
Gray fuzzy spots on leaves and flowers in wet weather
Botrytis blight shows up as grayish-brown spots on leaves and flower petals during prolonged damp, humid weather, sometimes with a visible fuzzy mold on badly affected tissue. Improve air movement around plants by thinning crowded clumps and avoiding overhead watering, which keeps foliage wet longer than necessary. Remove and discard infected leaves and flowers promptly rather than composting them on-site.
Sticky residue and curled new growth
Aphids cluster on new shoots and flower buds, feeding on sap and leaving behind a sticky residue that can attract sooty mold. Beyond the direct damage, aphids spread plant viruses between lilies, which show up as streaked or mottled, weakened growth that doesn't improve with better care. A strong jet of water or insecticidal soap controls light infestations; plants with persistent virus symptoms are best dug up and discarded rather than kept as a source of infection for others.
Bulbs rotting instead of sprouting
Soft, mushy bulbs that fail to send up growth, or that rot in the ground over winter, are almost always a drainage problem rather than a disease needing treatment. Lily bulbs planted in heavy, poorly drained soil sit in water they can't tolerate, especially during a wet winter. Rework the planting site with compost or coarse grit to improve drainage, or move bulbs to a raised bed or slope, rather than replanting in the same waterlogged spot.
Tall stems leaning, toppling, or snapping
This is a support issue rather than a pest or disease: the stems on many lilies are tall and top-heavy once in full flower, and wind or heavy rain easily knocks them over if they're not staked. Stake susceptible varieties early, before they begin to lean, since a stem bent or snapped partway through the season rarely recovers cleanly. Choosing a somewhat sheltered planting spot for the tallest varieties also reduces how often staking is needed.
Varieties worth growing
- Enchantment – A classic Asiatic hybrid with upward-facing orange-red blooms; an early, reliable bloomer and one of the most widely grown lilies.
- Stargazer – An Oriental hybrid with crimson-pink, outward-facing, heavily fragrant flowers; probably the most popular lily for cutting.
- Casa Blanca – A pure white Oriental hybrid with an intense, sweet fragrance and large, dramatic blooms.
- Black Beauty – A vigorous Orienpet (OT) hybrid with dark red, recurved petals and a mid-to-late season bloom time that extends the lily display.
- Lollypop – A compact Asiatic hybrid with pink-and-white bicolor flowers, well suited to smaller borders and large containers.
- Regale – A fragrant trumpet-type lily with white blooms flushed purple on the reverse, flowering in midsummer on tall, elegant stems.