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How to Grow Feverfew

Feverfew is an easygoing, short-lived perennial daisy grown for its cheerful white flowers and long history as an herbal remedy, though it self-seeds enthusiastically if left unchecked.

Plant 5 min read Checked sysop

Quick facts

Family
Asteraceae (daisy family)
Sun
Full sun to part shade
Water
Moderate; drought-tolerant once established
Spacing
12 inches (30 cm)
Days to harvest
Flowers from early summer through frost; leaves can be picked anytime once the plant is established
Hardiness
Hardy perennial in zones 5-9; often behaves as a short-lived perennial or biennial, lasting 2-3 years

Feverfew (Tanacetum parthenium) is a bushy, short-lived perennial in the daisy family, native to southeastern Europe and naturalized widely since. It's grown for its abundance of small, daisy-like white flowers with yellow centers, held above aromatic, feathery foliage, and for its long history as a folk remedy, traditionally used for headaches. In Kentucky's zone 6b it's reliably hardy and thrives on neglect, tolerating poor soil and dry spells without complaint. It's an easy plant for a beginner to succeed with; the main skill it demands isn't coaxing it along but keeping it contained, since feverfew self-seeds so readily that an unwatched planting can turn into a spreading patch within a couple of seasons.

Sowing and planting

Start seed indoors 6 to 8 weeks before the last frost, around mid-March in zone 6b, for flowers in the first year. Feverfew seed needs light to germinate, so press it onto the surface of moist seed-starting mix rather than burying it, and keep it at 65-70°F (18-21°C); seedlings appear within one to three weeks. You can also direct-sow outdoors after the last frost using the same surface-sowing technique, though plants started this way typically flower later in the summer.

Transplant or thin seedlings to 12 inches (30 cm) apart once they have a few true leaves and the danger of frost has passed. Feverfew isn't particular about soil and actually performs better in average or even lean ground than in rich, heavily amended beds, where it tends to grow soft and floppy. Give it full sun for the most compact growth and heaviest bloom, though it tolerates part shade reasonably well. Because established plants self-seed freely, it's worth choosing a spot from the start where volunteer seedlings won't be unwelcome, or committing to deadheading before seed sets.

Growing on

Feverfew asks for very little once it's established. Water during extended dry spells in the first season while roots are developing, then let it largely fend for itself; it handles drought far better than wet feet. Skip the fertilizer, or feed only lightly — rich soil and heavy feeding produce lush, weak stems that flop over rather than sturdy plants with abundant flowers.

Deadheading is the most important ongoing task, both to keep flowers coming and to control the plant's enthusiastic self-seeding; left alone, a single season's seed drop can fill a bed with volunteers the following spring. Shearing the whole plant back by about a third after the first flush of bloom encourages a second round of flowers and keeps the habit tidy. In rich soil or an exposed, windy spot, stems can flop under the weight of their flowers, so a light stake or surrounding plants to lean on can help. Because feverfew is short-lived, dividing established clumps every couple of years in spring keeps plantings vigorous and gives you new plants to fill in as older ones decline.

Harvesting

For leaves, pick fresh, young growth anytime from an established plant; feverfew tolerates light, ongoing picking well, and the leaves can be used fresh or dried. For flowers, cut stems once the blooms are fully open, whether for fresh arrangements, for drying, or simply to deadhead the plant before it sets seed — regular cutting through summer serves both purposes at once and is the single best way to prevent the plant from seeding itself everywhere.

To dry flowers or foliage, hang small bunches upside down in a warm, dark, well-ventilated spot until they're fully crisp, usually one to two weeks. Store the dried material in an airtight container out of direct light, where it keeps its color and scent for several months.

Problems and pests

Seedlings popping up uninvited all over the bed

Feverfew's biggest drawback is how freely it self-seeds, and volunteers can show up well beyond where you originally planted it. Deadhead spent flowers before they set seed to cut this off at the source, and hoe out unwanted seedlings while they're still small and easy to pull.

A white, powdery coating on the leaves

Powdery mildew shows up in humid weather or where plants are crowded and air circulation is poor, coating leaves in a pale film that stunts growth without usually killing the plant outright. Space plants to allow airflow, water at the base rather than overhead, and thin crowded clumps.

Small, ragged holes in the leaves

Flea beetles and other leaf beetles chew small holes in feverfew foliage, particularly on young plants in spring. Established plants generally outgrow the damage without treatment. For heavy pressure on young seedlings, a floating row cover laid over the bed until plants are larger keeps the beetles off.

Stems flopping over instead of standing upright

Lanky, weak stems usually trace back to soil that's too rich, too much shade, or both, pushing the plant toward soft growth instead of sturdy stems. Avoid feeding, move plantings to full sun where possible, and stake or let nearby plants provide support if flopping is already a problem.

Clusters of small insects on new growth and flower buds

Aphids gather on tender new shoots and unopened buds, sometimes distorting growth if left unchecked. A strong spray of water knocks most colonies off, and the usual garden predators — ladybugs and lacewings in particular — tend to clean up what's left. Insecticidal soap handles a heavier infestation.

Varieties worth growing

  • Single feverfew (species form) – The wild type, with simple, single white daisy flowers and finely cut, aromatic foliage; the easiest to find and the most prolific self-seeder.
  • 'Flore Pleno' (Double Feverfew) – Fully double, button-like white flowers with little to no visible yellow center, a favorite for cutting and drying.
  • 'Aureum' (Golden Feverfew) – Grown as much for its bright chartreuse-gold foliage as for its flowers, useful for edging and contrast in a border even before it blooms.
  • 'White Stars' – A seed strain bred for larger, more uniform flowers on sturdier stems, suited to gardeners growing feverfew mainly as a cut flower.
  • Tanacetum coccineum (Painted Daisy, Pyrethrum) – A closely related species with larger, more colorful daisy flowers in pink, red, and white, grown the same way and useful alongside feverfew in a cutting garden.

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